6/15/2004 7:55AM at Aberdeen station. This is going to be a long rail-day from the top of Scotland to the heart of England. Direct service to London King’s X (‘cross’). But I’m stopping off at York, “the most haunted city in England.” Paris has been quietly discarded from my itinerary.

Last night: had a fried slice of haggis for the first time. Described as a stuffed sheep’s stomach, it sounds kind of nasty. But it didn’t taste that bad; I’d say it’s like a spicy sausage, but soft and crumbly when you stick it with a fork. If it were not covered in batter and deep-fried, it would have fallen apart. . . Ah British comfort food: everything here is kind of greasy. As the McCain’s chips commercial says, “chin up.” Considering the weather they have here, that’s the sort of food that’s called for. Chips, bacon, sausages. . .

Last night, rode with Liz and Colin to the ferry port, 2 PhD’s up in the Orkneys for research who were also staying at the hostel. Didn’t get much sleep on the ferry, since the only place dark enough was the cinema lounge. Wasn’t much different from sleeping on a plane. Disembarking, and finally greeting the sun here in aberdeen. 2.5 weeks down, and 3.5 to go. Can’t believe how tired I feel.

11:00AM leaning back in the train and watching the sky, while listening to radiohead (like a cracked polystyrene man). I think it was about 10 years ago that Miyazaki’s films taught me to look at the sky again. I don’t think it’s a normal thing for a college student to (re)discover, since we tend to get caught up in all sorts of other things at school (academics, drinking, partying, relationships. Because of Nausicaa and Totoro I spent a lot of time looking at trees. . . because of Laputa and Porco Rosso, I stare at the sky. Of course I think I always had this sort of tendency. As a kid, I remember people remarking that I don’t talk much in cars, but instead tend to stare out the window. And at Chinese camp years and years ago, I only took pictures of clouds, not the people.

6:45PM on the express train from York to London, finally full circle. The sun is out, spreading its crisp light on the gaudy shopping streets. Besides the viking museum, Yorkminster (cathedral), and the ghost hunt tours, York is just a big set of tourist shops. Picturesque in its antique sort of way, but still buzzing with shoppers and cash. But I was buoyed up by the warm sunlight, the cool breeze, and the sudden realization that I was close to accomplishing my mission. So this is England? Bring it on. Four days until I board the plane to Tokyo. Yorkminster was grand beyond words (see pics). Winners and losers in history are clear to see. Consider in comparison with the Cathedral at Elgin. Anglican church versus Catholicism. 275 claustrophobic steps (and odor of sweat) to the top. Oddly, I was struck by the three nuclear power plants that are visible from the top along the horizon.

‘The shambles’ – an old shopping district with a compelling name, but ultimately a disappointment .

Didn’t know this, but an ‘iconoclast’ during the English reformation meant a smasher of catholic images.

‘Lunch’ was a sausage sandwich (2 pounds) with stuffing and ‘brown’ sauce. Strangely, the brits describe their sauces by color. ‘Red’ sauce is pretty much just ketchup. ‘Brown’ is like worcester sauce. ‘Dinner’ at Marks & Spencer – 2 pre-packaged salads plus a drink = 5 pounds.

Arriving at Kings Cross at 8:40PM, walking to Warren St. tube stop to meet Tai.