Hey there. I'm really jetlagged; it's not like I ordinarily get up at 5:30AM to start typing on my computer. Then again, there were those times in college, but I kind of wish I had those hours back now. Nothing like some sober reflection on one's own past. I mean, if we had no capacity for self-criticism, we would be no better than animals.
A few small comments on my last few days in Japan.
1. I witnessed a fight in Shinjuku's "notorious" kabuki-cho. The district really isn't that dangerous to me, and I've been there several times. Sitting down on a metal fence (ha, sitting on a fence is a good metaphor for that night), I spent about 20 minutes or so with Fisch watching the people stroll by. Lots of young couples. Giggling college girls. Young guys on dates. Then a tangled snarl of fighting Japanese from my left. About 15 feet away, two large guys were face to face muttering, mumbling. There was some punching. There was some out and out bullying as the guy in blue tried to back down. It was brutal, and so stupid I felt angry about it. After the guy in blue went down, the other chunky guy in black, joined by a shorter fellow in the exact same outfit, strolled down the street. He played possum, and his wife was screaming into her cellphone for an ambulance. What followed was a melodramatic farce as police started asking questions, and the guy kept playing hurt, groaning and holding his left side. He was evenntually helped onto a stretcher and taken off by paramedics. I don't think he was hurt. He just needed to appear hurt to protect his pride. Who would want everyone to know they took a fall on purpose? Like I said, I was angry at the stupidness and viciousness of the world, but who knows what really happened? I'm glad Fisch was there in fact, because that immediately set me apart as a foreigner (or at least, in the company of a foreigner). Better that then being drawn into the situation, or being asked questions by the police.
2. Dubliner's Pub in Shinjuku is the worst irish pub in the world. Too crowded (amazingly), and they water down their drinks. I spent about an hour at an FOJ and NBK mixer there, and met some nice, earnest people about to begin their studies at Columbia. Some, that is. Others were kind of obnoxious in that know-it-all sort of way. Petpeeve: people who live 1-3 years overseas, know something of the language (and get praised on it all the time), and therefore think it's their duty to teach you about the place (foreigners in Japan and China are especially like this). Yuck. Anyway, it makes you think how naive they are, but then again the world doesn't necessarily reward those who are right; being wrong but persuasive seems to be a formula for success for a lot of people . . .
3. Saw the Roppongi Hills mega-complex. Disorientingly constructed, but magnificent at night when it's all lit up. It features a 24-hour movie theater for the Roppongi crowds who miss the last train, and it's buoyed up flagging land prices in the area (damaged of course by gaijin of ill-repute around the bars in the district).
--
I'm tired, but not tired enough to whine at www.tired.com.
Thursday, July 15, 2004
Friday, July 09, 2004
the road home
I'm at narita airport now, waiting for my virgin atlantic flight back home. It'll be rather circuitous, as it stops in heathrow for a few hours before continuing on to jfk. I'm pretty exhausted, but happy to be going "home". It's kind of an illusion that anywhere will feel like home ever again though. . .
Japan was still the same mix of excitement and disappointment that it has been for me these past few years. I've been talking to more people, and meeting up with old friends for the past few weeks, so my blog posts have dropped off somewhat. Anyway, I'll see if I can muster up the necessary motivation to continue the blog once I'm back in new jersey ("home").
Japan was still the same mix of excitement and disappointment that it has been for me these past few years. I've been talking to more people, and meeting up with old friends for the past few weeks, so my blog posts have dropped off somewhat. Anyway, I'll see if I can muster up the necessary motivation to continue the blog once I'm back in new jersey ("home").
Wednesday, July 07, 2004
back on the net. sort of.
So I'm staying with fisch for the time being, and he finally got yahoo broadband installed here in japan. Specifically, he's near a small train station called Higashi Koganei, about 30 minutes from downtown tokyo. Not a bad place to be, and the internet makes it even better.
I'm not feeling well, so I'm glad my trip is almost over. On the whole, it was a bit too long in fact. But well, the odd coincidences keep occurring.
I was at the internet (and manga) cafe Bagus in Kichijoji (that's 'Joji' to you), just minding my own biz and uploading some pictures when I couldn't help overhearing a heated argument in the cubicle next door. An american was fuming about how the staff there wasn't helping him recover an email from an apparently frozen internet explorer. I sat there for about 5 minutes listening to it before getting up and asking what the hell was the problem. Well, there wasn't really much of problem, except that the Japanese staff wasn't making clear what they were doing. A quick explanation in english (copy-paste, then saving to a floppy, and opening it on another computer), and the situation was more or less defused. What was really odd was that the elderly gent said that he's a columbia grad from many decades ago, and that he studied international affairs. His name is Cliff, and he didn't recognize the acronym SIPA, but it was clear that he was in that same building.
Some mediated apologies later, all seemed to be well. At the end of my visit, in fact, the staff there offered to nix my bill. I'd like to go on record that JUST THIS ONCE a good deed actually went rewarded.
The heat here was terrible, but I ended the evening having dinner and coffee with a former student, Fukutake Miwa. It's amazing how people can grow up, and she's doing quite well as a teacher herself now.
I'm not feeling well, so I'm glad my trip is almost over. On the whole, it was a bit too long in fact. But well, the odd coincidences keep occurring.
I was at the internet (and manga) cafe Bagus in Kichijoji (that's 'Joji' to you), just minding my own biz and uploading some pictures when I couldn't help overhearing a heated argument in the cubicle next door. An american was fuming about how the staff there wasn't helping him recover an email from an apparently frozen internet explorer. I sat there for about 5 minutes listening to it before getting up and asking what the hell was the problem. Well, there wasn't really much of problem, except that the Japanese staff wasn't making clear what they were doing. A quick explanation in english (copy-paste, then saving to a floppy, and opening it on another computer), and the situation was more or less defused. What was really odd was that the elderly gent said that he's a columbia grad from many decades ago, and that he studied international affairs. His name is Cliff, and he didn't recognize the acronym SIPA, but it was clear that he was in that same building.
Some mediated apologies later, all seemed to be well. At the end of my visit, in fact, the staff there offered to nix my bill. I'd like to go on record that JUST THIS ONCE a good deed actually went rewarded.
The heat here was terrible, but I ended the evening having dinner and coffee with a former student, Fukutake Miwa. It's amazing how people can grow up, and she's doing quite well as a teacher herself now.
7/5/2004 8:50PM, at a starbucks near the Nagasaki ferry terminal. Nagasaki has overall been a disappointment, but from the ashes of that disappointment a pleasant surprise as well. With the sun bearing down on my head at 11am, the 32 degree heat felt incredibly oppressive. I don’t think I enjoyed any of the traditional tourist sites under those conditions, the Tojin yashiki (original Chinese settlement) included. But after a recuperative nap at the minshuku (and the aircon set to 23 degrees) I discovered that at twilight the sea breezes bring a marvelous coolness to the city. The harbor walk along fishing boats, cargo ships, tugs, and ferries was well maintained and pleasantly lit. Families were fishing, kids were launching fireworks, and I followed the bay until I reached a convenience store. 700 yen bought me a salad, a small bento, and Calpis Water®. If I were staying here longer, I would run the harbor walk every evening.
--
Did a strenuous walking loop today that hit Suwa Jinja, Kofukuji, Sofukuji, Megane bashi (eyeglass bridge), the remains of the tojin yashiki, a lovely Kyushu style ramen restaurant, and the partially reconstructed Dutch trading “factory” of Dejima. I have to say, most of Nagasaki is not really ready to go primetime. Construction obstructs proper views of meganebashi, many of the shrines and temples, especially in the tojinyashiki, are unkempt and deserted, and the streets are too narrow for sightseers and taxis to comfortably share. There were some historical signs that would require considerable time for even Japanese to read, but were placed right on a busy thoroughfare where there weren’t even any sidewalks. Between passing cars, I tried to take a picture of them so I could analyze them later. Like I said earlier, very disappointing.
--
Two chance encounters today: a snake at Sofukuji, and a self-proclaimed “opinionated” American named Tom who teaches at Ryukyu University. (oh wait, one more! I walked into kofukuji and they were in the middle of inducting a new abbot. quite a fortuitous window into the workings of a zen temple.)
Chinatown is rather small here, and is not actually situated on the site of the old tojinyashiki. Instead, it’s located on the “shinchi” (new district) warehouse zone that was built some time in the 18th century, and some 50 years after the original tojinyashiki was built. Likewise, the so-called “dutch slope” (oranda zaka) is rather far from the original trading settlement of dejima. The dutch slope in fact was the site of the later, post-1859 trading community, but was probably confused in the minds of local residents. It’s all rather confusing to me, but perhaps that’s one of the particular characteristics of Nagasaki. I’m drawn to the hypothesis that the local people were never that clear about the specifics of their foreign visitors, just like Japanese tourists today pay little attention to the specifics of Nagasaki’s cosmopolitan past. The “international” aspects of Nagasaki’s past draw tourists in, but not as specific historical consciousness, but rather as a vague exoticism.
--
Kyushu express trains are fabulous. I arrived from Hakata/Fukuoka on the “kamome” limited express, which was about as wide and spacious as a shinkansen, had polished wood floorboards, and plush black leather (synthetic perhaps?) seats. I’ll be leaving on it tomorrow morning as well, at 9:50AM. The other trains heading for different destinations were all unique in color and shape. I’ll try to get some pictures of them tomorrow. Reminds me of the rather cute purple “super yakumo” express that departs from Okayama bound for the sea of Japan.
--
what’s the speed record for doing one lap of Honshu by shinkansen?
--
Did a strenuous walking loop today that hit Suwa Jinja, Kofukuji, Sofukuji, Megane bashi (eyeglass bridge), the remains of the tojin yashiki, a lovely Kyushu style ramen restaurant, and the partially reconstructed Dutch trading “factory” of Dejima. I have to say, most of Nagasaki is not really ready to go primetime. Construction obstructs proper views of meganebashi, many of the shrines and temples, especially in the tojinyashiki, are unkempt and deserted, and the streets are too narrow for sightseers and taxis to comfortably share. There were some historical signs that would require considerable time for even Japanese to read, but were placed right on a busy thoroughfare where there weren’t even any sidewalks. Between passing cars, I tried to take a picture of them so I could analyze them later. Like I said earlier, very disappointing.
--
Two chance encounters today: a snake at Sofukuji, and a self-proclaimed “opinionated” American named Tom who teaches at Ryukyu University. (oh wait, one more! I walked into kofukuji and they were in the middle of inducting a new abbot. quite a fortuitous window into the workings of a zen temple.)
Chinatown is rather small here, and is not actually situated on the site of the old tojinyashiki. Instead, it’s located on the “shinchi” (new district) warehouse zone that was built some time in the 18th century, and some 50 years after the original tojinyashiki was built. Likewise, the so-called “dutch slope” (oranda zaka) is rather far from the original trading settlement of dejima. The dutch slope in fact was the site of the later, post-1859 trading community, but was probably confused in the minds of local residents. It’s all rather confusing to me, but perhaps that’s one of the particular characteristics of Nagasaki. I’m drawn to the hypothesis that the local people were never that clear about the specifics of their foreign visitors, just like Japanese tourists today pay little attention to the specifics of Nagasaki’s cosmopolitan past. The “international” aspects of Nagasaki’s past draw tourists in, but not as specific historical consciousness, but rather as a vague exoticism.
--
Kyushu express trains are fabulous. I arrived from Hakata/Fukuoka on the “kamome” limited express, which was about as wide and spacious as a shinkansen, had polished wood floorboards, and plush black leather (synthetic perhaps?) seats. I’ll be leaving on it tomorrow morning as well, at 9:50AM. The other trains heading for different destinations were all unique in color and shape. I’ll try to get some pictures of them tomorrow. Reminds me of the rather cute purple “super yakumo” express that departs from Okayama bound for the sea of Japan.
--
what’s the speed record for doing one lap of Honshu by shinkansen?
7/4/2004 First time in Kyushu, first time in Nagasaki. I’m getting in the bath pretty soon at the Minshuku Fumi. It kind of reminds me of staying with my friend Hide; a 6-tatami room, with the bathroom next door. Not a bad deal at 3500 yen a night, especially since its about 2 minutes from the JR station. I was hoping to go down to Kagoshima as well, since there were signs proclaiming a “kyushu shinkansen” that links Nagasaki with Kagoshima in around 2 hours. Not so apparently. Such a rail line is at least two years away it seems.
A typhoon just passed through here, and the air is thick with drizzle, but surprisingly mild compared with Kyoto. I took a stroll as the sky was growing dark, and promptly got lost. I don’t consider that a particularly tragic occurrence, since for the most part I’m here to lose myself anyway.
A typhoon just passed through here, and the air is thick with drizzle, but surprisingly mild compared with Kyoto. I took a stroll as the sky was growing dark, and promptly got lost. I don’t consider that a particularly tragic occurrence, since for the most part I’m here to lose myself anyway.
Saturday, July 03, 2004
assorted thoughts from the past few days
6/27/2004 kaminari - the distant sound of thunder. today’s outlook: kumori, tokidoki ame.
Okayama is still here, but almost everyone I knew has gone. I passed by my old apartment (Nakasho Haitsu 103) but the light was off. My mind’s eye still sees it as it was, only now with a thin layer of dust over it all. But time marches on, and leaves nothing in its wake. Enough cliches. I know now that this is probably the last time that I’ll be able to do the backpacker circuit. It’s tiring, and I’m too old for this nonsense. It’s time to show your cards and commit to one thing or other, career or something else. The next time I come here, I’ll be a visiting scholar, and things will be different. Obvious though it is, I don’t have a lot of tourism to do in Japan. I’ve seen a lot of it already. What’s left is pure business.
Had dinner at “taiyo no jidai” a monja restaurant. Monja is a strange thing. You cook it yourself at a griddle, and it’s a mass of vegetables and meat, with some sort of sauce. It never really hardens into a pancake (like okonomiyaki) but stays kind of liquid. Like I said, rather mysterious food. The owner, Ohashi Yasutami came over and had a beer with us (Yoshimoto-sensi, Youko, and I). It seems he knows a jazz saxophonist in NYC (harlem, in fact) named Masa. A woman in her forties. When I go back, I’ll ask around. Okayama is like this I guess. The only thing that brings me back are the people I know, and every year it seems they get fewer and fewer.
--
6/30/2004 7:15PM Kyoto, at K’s Hostel. I’m like an old-timer now. The first time I came to this town was 1996, eight years ago. I no longer feel like a tourist, which feels like a loss of innocence, both good and bad.
lunch with an Irish couple at Sukiya – serves PORK bowl now, not beef bowl after the outbreak of BSE in the states shut them down in february. The same fate for Yoshinoya?
jogging along the gurgling Kamo River in the midday sun. turtles ducking of the way as I approach. long necked cranes followed me with their eyes. an odd sight: an abandoned wheelchair by the river’s edge.
Some aesthetic observations about Japan, the ambiguous, and myself:
1. Entering the bath after Satoko’s sister; the water spilling over the edge and running down the drain is the difference in the size of our bodies. (edit: there was a lot of water down the drain, she's not a very big girl.)
2. I love the rice patties of early summer because they reflect the sky and mountains, between a green grid of precisely laid sprouts.
Later that night, an evening of ‘Japanese’ experiences: participated (fortuitously) in the Minazuki shinto ritual at Ichihime jinja. Saw a group of maiko (geisha) strolling along Shijo dori carrying shopping bags. One yawned as they waited for the pedestrian signal to change. A rare display of humanity from so ghostly a figure.
--
7/1/2004 Minazuki (“the month without water”) is over and now it’s Fumizuki. In poetry, it has autumn resonances, but it’s still extremely muggy here.
Okayama is still here, but almost everyone I knew has gone. I passed by my old apartment (Nakasho Haitsu 103) but the light was off. My mind’s eye still sees it as it was, only now with a thin layer of dust over it all. But time marches on, and leaves nothing in its wake. Enough cliches. I know now that this is probably the last time that I’ll be able to do the backpacker circuit. It’s tiring, and I’m too old for this nonsense. It’s time to show your cards and commit to one thing or other, career or something else. The next time I come here, I’ll be a visiting scholar, and things will be different. Obvious though it is, I don’t have a lot of tourism to do in Japan. I’ve seen a lot of it already. What’s left is pure business.
Had dinner at “taiyo no jidai” a monja restaurant. Monja is a strange thing. You cook it yourself at a griddle, and it’s a mass of vegetables and meat, with some sort of sauce. It never really hardens into a pancake (like okonomiyaki) but stays kind of liquid. Like I said, rather mysterious food. The owner, Ohashi Yasutami came over and had a beer with us (Yoshimoto-sensi, Youko, and I). It seems he knows a jazz saxophonist in NYC (harlem, in fact) named Masa. A woman in her forties. When I go back, I’ll ask around. Okayama is like this I guess. The only thing that brings me back are the people I know, and every year it seems they get fewer and fewer.
--
6/30/2004 7:15PM Kyoto, at K’s Hostel. I’m like an old-timer now. The first time I came to this town was 1996, eight years ago. I no longer feel like a tourist, which feels like a loss of innocence, both good and bad.
lunch with an Irish couple at Sukiya – serves PORK bowl now, not beef bowl after the outbreak of BSE in the states shut them down in february. The same fate for Yoshinoya?
jogging along the gurgling Kamo River in the midday sun. turtles ducking of the way as I approach. long necked cranes followed me with their eyes. an odd sight: an abandoned wheelchair by the river’s edge.
Some aesthetic observations about Japan, the ambiguous, and myself:
1. Entering the bath after Satoko’s sister; the water spilling over the edge and running down the drain is the difference in the size of our bodies. (edit: there was a lot of water down the drain, she's not a very big girl.)
2. I love the rice patties of early summer because they reflect the sky and mountains, between a green grid of precisely laid sprouts.
Later that night, an evening of ‘Japanese’ experiences: participated (fortuitously) in the Minazuki shinto ritual at Ichihime jinja. Saw a group of maiko (geisha) strolling along Shijo dori carrying shopping bags. One yawned as they waited for the pedestrian signal to change. A rare display of humanity from so ghostly a figure.
--
7/1/2004 Minazuki (“the month without water”) is over and now it’s Fumizuki. In poetry, it has autumn resonances, but it’s still extremely muggy here.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
